Wines Off The (REALLY) Beaten Path: Czech Republic

It's super fun to be in Prague today

So here I am writing from my vacation in Prague. I thought I would take a few days off from wine for the lauded Czech beer. (Fact: That beer is damn good.) But in honor of Petra Kvitova and her absolute domination over Maria Sharapova in Wimbledon, I was prodded into trying some Czech wine. This did not seem like a good idea. Here people seem to crinkle their noses at the mention of wine.

And yet the Moravian Cabernet I tried (Glos Jakostni Ves 2007) wasn’t all that bad. It’s a little bland with just the slightest hint of cassis (probably because this is close to a Cabernet Franc variety). Moravia is a very cool climate so it’s fitting that most of the vineyards are located in the region that gets the most sun and is relatively warmer. The dark Red color is startling and admittedly something I wasn’t expecting.

It’s definitely the right wine to warm you up from a brisk walk along the chilly Vltava River. The oak seems to be from Hungary (makes sense) and it’s slightly tannic, if not just a tad bitter. Frankly, it’s a much better Red then I’ve received at some of the cheap parties I’ve gone to in New York.

Perhaps the Czech Republic will take the cues of Austria, their neighbor that twenty years ago was languishing in the wine producing world and really bring a concentrated focus to their wineries and vineyards.

Until then, just clink a glass when a Czech wins a Grand Slam. 

Celebrating Lambrusco Day

Did you see what I just did to that guy? Get me a drink now!

How did you celebrate the official start to summer? I did so by taking part in Lambrusco Day. Props to one of my favorite neighborhood wine stores 67 Wines for sponsoring this and introducing me to some great summer wines.

Anyone who thinks Lambrusco is just a dressed up Rose is completely missing the mark. I tried a Manicardi Vigna Ca del Fiore Cru and it’s a deep dark, ruby red with a much more aggressive taste then most of your “summer” wines. You get a nice hint of strawberry and dark cherry with a surprisingly more “tannic” quality than what you’d normally find in a sparkling wine.

This particular wine comes from a region north in Italy called Emilia Romagna. This is a premier region of the country which comprises Parma and Ferrera. (Fun Fact: Some of your chicest car manufacturers like Maserati, Lamborghini, and Ferrari come from this region.) Lambrusco's been a mainstay in Italy for centuries and was actually popular amongst the ancient Romans. Toga party, anyone?  

Wines of Chile Grand Tasting

From the Morande table

Carménère is one of my favorite grapes in the entire world. I am so happy that it was rediscovered in Chile after many assumed it died out in Bordeaux. To those awful European settlers who plundered through Chile in the sixteenth and seventeenth century, I salute you (well sorta, what you did was still terrible even if you did unbeknownst to yourself safe an entire grape varietal).

Last week I actually went to a Grand Tasting of Chile’s Wines in Chelsea. It was a great big show with about sixty vineyards and all the scrumptious ceviche you could down. Let’s take a look at some of the standout Carménère.

From Geo Wines in the Maipo Valley is the Chono San Lorenzo 2007. This is a great wine to pair with steak. And because it’s actually a blend with 20% Syrah it would work well with lamb too. There’s a great earthy vibe to this that balances out the pleasant fruit and floral flavors with the Carménère. Bonus points because it’s biodynamic. 

Much farther south in the Maule Valley is where J. Bouchon makes the Mingre 2008. This is a blend of 32% Syrah, 30% Malbec, 20% Carménère, and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a little pricey at $50.00 a bottle (retail), but it is totally worth it. There’s a most divine bouquet of blackberry and raspberry with just a hint of an earthy tobacco. Again, this is another great wine to pair with steak.

For a more affordable bottle of Carménère let’s take a look at the Pionero Carménère 2010 from Morandé in the Rapel Valley. This is 100% Carménère (with grapes actually from Maipo) that has a very nice finish, with that same bouquet of blackberries, vanilla, and a whiff of honeysuckle (in my opinion). This has been aged for about four to five months in French oak. Divine.

So let’s raise a glass to Carménère, the lost Bordeaux grape re-discovered  

A Roussillon Tasting

On the left is the Clos des Fees

It’s been awhile since I’ve posted on here but after a recent tasting I went to about Roussillon I just felt I had to share.

Roussillon is at the Southern edges of France and is pretty much overshadowed by Languedoc. Most restaurants in New York may have just a few bottles from Roussillon if any at all.

And that’s a shame because what you find with these wines is something very unique. Fitting for a region that’s best known for Hannibal’s trek to Rome.

Let’s start with the Clos des Fees Cotes de Roussillon Blanc 2005. This is 90% Grenache Blanc with some hints of new French oak. There is definitely a stone fruit working here, most notably apricot. For a white, it’s very different than what you’d think for “Southern France.” It is crisp, but it’s got a lot of texture; a nice kick. One of the sommeliers leading the seminar says she even gets a hint of “saltwater taffy.” That’s new!

Next up we have the Domaine La Tour Vielle Banyuls Reserve. This particular vineyard lies on a very craggy hill so it relies on manual grape picking.  The climate is very sunny and dry which definitely affects acidity. This is a very interesting wine that could actually be paired with ham. The bacon fat smell really carries through and makes you crave a nice meat. Yum! 

Wine & Spirits: Top of the List

THE magazine for wine lovers

Earlier this week I went to an event for Wine & Spirits with some of the top wineries in the country. The evening began with a nice champagne and caviar reception but continued on with numerous tastings and delicacies from Ai Fiori, Edi & The Worlf, ABC Kitchen & Ciano (um, their meatballs are absolutely amazing.) 

One of my favorite whites was the 2009 Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay from Napa Valley. I thought that it smelled of very crisp apples and peaches. The oak wasn't very heavy on the taste, in fact it enhanced the fruit flavors and brought in some nice minerality. There was a great finish on this wine too. Definitely pair this with salmon or a lighter fish. 

My favorite red also came from Napa Valley and was the 2007 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon. With hints of cassis and blackberry, this Cabernet was more elegant than just a typical Napa red. This particular wine was aged for 18 months in mostly French Oak, hence the lush palate. 

And definitely check out the latest issue of Wine & Spirits for the Restaurant Poll!

Wines Off The Beaten Path: Southwest France

The Jurancon is the third from the left

Recently I was able to attend a tasting at Astor Center with MS Fred Dexheimer for Spring Wines. Instead of the usual Roses, Fred presented us with a bunch of unique wines. One varietal I became introduced to was Jurançon, from Southwest France.  

And by Southwest I mean Southwest, way west of Languedoc. There are experts in French wine that have never heard of Jurançon.

And that’s a shame because it’s quite a psychedelic wine. First, it smells totally insane. I mean it’s fragrant and smells like candy or honey. But crazy, tripped-out candy and honey.

Tasting there is mouth-watering acidity. Fred would recommend this with pate or foie gras. In fact, this region is famous for solely living off Jurançon and these very meals. Talk about a rich life!

Fun Fact: Henry IV was baptized with Jurançon.

What the heck is Zweigelt?

The hills are alive... and growing grapes!

Recently I decided I wanted to try some Austrian wines. Everybody associates Austria with Grüner Veltliner, but I wanted a wine even more off the beaten both. And this was how I came to try my first glass of Zweigelt.

This is actually a hybrid grape that results from crossing Blaüfrankisch and St. Laurent. The grape is gaining some traction in the cooler climate vineyards of Canada and Northern Europe. Because this is so not a warm weather wine, the tannins are very soft. And yet there’s some texture there with hints of dark cherry and raspberry. I tried a glass of Glatzer Zweigelt Dornenvogel 2005, the vineyard’s reserve. Even though it’s aged in Amerian oak I didn’t get much of the sweeter flavors. Instead I felt a nice aroma of spice and earthiness.

It’s certainly a very interesting wine, and one that I’m looking forward to exploring more.