Wines Off The (REALLY) Beaten Path: Czech Republic

It's super fun to be in Prague today

So here I am writing from my vacation in Prague. I thought I would take a few days off from wine for the lauded Czech beer. (Fact: That beer is damn good.) But in honor of Petra Kvitova and her absolute domination over Maria Sharapova in Wimbledon, I was prodded into trying some Czech wine. This did not seem like a good idea. Here people seem to crinkle their noses at the mention of wine.

And yet the Moravian Cabernet I tried (Glos Jakostni Ves 2007) wasn’t all that bad. It’s a little bland with just the slightest hint of cassis (probably because this is close to a Cabernet Franc variety). Moravia is a very cool climate so it’s fitting that most of the vineyards are located in the region that gets the most sun and is relatively warmer. The dark Red color is startling and admittedly something I wasn’t expecting.

It’s definitely the right wine to warm you up from a brisk walk along the chilly Vltava River. The oak seems to be from Hungary (makes sense) and it’s slightly tannic, if not just a tad bitter. Frankly, it’s a much better Red then I’ve received at some of the cheap parties I’ve gone to in New York.

Perhaps the Czech Republic will take the cues of Austria, their neighbor that twenty years ago was languishing in the wine producing world and really bring a concentrated focus to their wineries and vineyards.

Until then, just clink a glass when a Czech wins a Grand Slam. 

Celebrating Lambrusco Day

Did you see what I just did to that guy? Get me a drink now!

How did you celebrate the official start to summer? I did so by taking part in Lambrusco Day. Props to one of my favorite neighborhood wine stores 67 Wines for sponsoring this and introducing me to some great summer wines.

Anyone who thinks Lambrusco is just a dressed up Rose is completely missing the mark. I tried a Manicardi Vigna Ca del Fiore Cru and it’s a deep dark, ruby red with a much more aggressive taste then most of your “summer” wines. You get a nice hint of strawberry and dark cherry with a surprisingly more “tannic” quality than what you’d normally find in a sparkling wine.

This particular wine comes from a region north in Italy called Emilia Romagna. This is a premier region of the country which comprises Parma and Ferrera. (Fun Fact: Some of your chicest car manufacturers like Maserati, Lamborghini, and Ferrari come from this region.) Lambrusco's been a mainstay in Italy for centuries and was actually popular amongst the ancient Romans. Toga party, anyone?  

Wines of Chile Grand Tasting

From the Morande table

Carménère is one of my favorite grapes in the entire world. I am so happy that it was rediscovered in Chile after many assumed it died out in Bordeaux. To those awful European settlers who plundered through Chile in the sixteenth and seventeenth century, I salute you (well sorta, what you did was still terrible even if you did unbeknownst to yourself safe an entire grape varietal).

Last week I actually went to a Grand Tasting of Chile’s Wines in Chelsea. It was a great big show with about sixty vineyards and all the scrumptious ceviche you could down. Let’s take a look at some of the standout Carménère.

From Geo Wines in the Maipo Valley is the Chono San Lorenzo 2007. This is a great wine to pair with steak. And because it’s actually a blend with 20% Syrah it would work well with lamb too. There’s a great earthy vibe to this that balances out the pleasant fruit and floral flavors with the Carménère. Bonus points because it’s biodynamic. 

Much farther south in the Maule Valley is where J. Bouchon makes the Mingre 2008. This is a blend of 32% Syrah, 30% Malbec, 20% Carménère, and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a little pricey at $50.00 a bottle (retail), but it is totally worth it. There’s a most divine bouquet of blackberry and raspberry with just a hint of an earthy tobacco. Again, this is another great wine to pair with steak.

For a more affordable bottle of Carménère let’s take a look at the Pionero Carménère 2010 from Morandé in the Rapel Valley. This is 100% Carménère (with grapes actually from Maipo) that has a very nice finish, with that same bouquet of blackberries, vanilla, and a whiff of honeysuckle (in my opinion). This has been aged for about four to five months in French oak. Divine.

So let’s raise a glass to Carménère, the lost Bordeaux grape re-discovered  

A Roussillon Tasting

On the left is the Clos des Fees

It’s been awhile since I’ve posted on here but after a recent tasting I went to about Roussillon I just felt I had to share.

Roussillon is at the Southern edges of France and is pretty much overshadowed by Languedoc. Most restaurants in New York may have just a few bottles from Roussillon if any at all.

And that’s a shame because what you find with these wines is something very unique. Fitting for a region that’s best known for Hannibal’s trek to Rome.

Let’s start with the Clos des Fees Cotes de Roussillon Blanc 2005. This is 90% Grenache Blanc with some hints of new French oak. There is definitely a stone fruit working here, most notably apricot. For a white, it’s very different than what you’d think for “Southern France.” It is crisp, but it’s got a lot of texture; a nice kick. One of the sommeliers leading the seminar says she even gets a hint of “saltwater taffy.” That’s new!

Next up we have the Domaine La Tour Vielle Banyuls Reserve. This particular vineyard lies on a very craggy hill so it relies on manual grape picking.  The climate is very sunny and dry which definitely affects acidity. This is a very interesting wine that could actually be paired with ham. The bacon fat smell really carries through and makes you crave a nice meat. Yum! 

Wine & Spirits: Top of the List

THE magazine for wine lovers

Earlier this week I went to an event for Wine & Spirits with some of the top wineries in the country. The evening began with a nice champagne and caviar reception but continued on with numerous tastings and delicacies from Ai Fiori, Edi & The Worlf, ABC Kitchen & Ciano (um, their meatballs are absolutely amazing.) 

One of my favorite whites was the 2009 Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay from Napa Valley. I thought that it smelled of very crisp apples and peaches. The oak wasn't very heavy on the taste, in fact it enhanced the fruit flavors and brought in some nice minerality. There was a great finish on this wine too. Definitely pair this with salmon or a lighter fish. 

My favorite red also came from Napa Valley and was the 2007 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon. With hints of cassis and blackberry, this Cabernet was more elegant than just a typical Napa red. This particular wine was aged for 18 months in mostly French Oak, hence the lush palate. 

And definitely check out the latest issue of Wine & Spirits for the Restaurant Poll!

Wines Off The Beaten Path: Southwest France

The Jurancon is the third from the left

Recently I was able to attend a tasting at Astor Center with MS Fred Dexheimer for Spring Wines. Instead of the usual Roses, Fred presented us with a bunch of unique wines. One varietal I became introduced to was Jurançon, from Southwest France.  

And by Southwest I mean Southwest, way west of Languedoc. There are experts in French wine that have never heard of Jurançon.

And that’s a shame because it’s quite a psychedelic wine. First, it smells totally insane. I mean it’s fragrant and smells like candy or honey. But crazy, tripped-out candy and honey.

Tasting there is mouth-watering acidity. Fred would recommend this with pate or foie gras. In fact, this region is famous for solely living off Jurançon and these very meals. Talk about a rich life!

Fun Fact: Henry IV was baptized with Jurançon.

What the heck is Zweigelt?

The hills are alive... and growing grapes!

Recently I decided I wanted to try some Austrian wines. Everybody associates Austria with Grüner Veltliner, but I wanted a wine even more off the beaten both. And this was how I came to try my first glass of Zweigelt.

This is actually a hybrid grape that results from crossing Blaüfrankisch and St. Laurent. The grape is gaining some traction in the cooler climate vineyards of Canada and Northern Europe. Because this is so not a warm weather wine, the tannins are very soft. And yet there’s some texture there with hints of dark cherry and raspberry. I tried a glass of Glatzer Zweigelt Dornenvogel 2005, the vineyard’s reserve. Even though it’s aged in Amerian oak I didn’t get much of the sweeter flavors. Instead I felt a nice aroma of spice and earthiness.

It’s certainly a very interesting wine, and one that I’m looking forward to exploring more.

Exploring Wine at La Silhouette

Located at 362 West 53rd

Recently opened on 53^rd Street in Hell’s Kitchen, La Silhouette is the latest entry in French haute cuisine in the Theater District. Yesterday a friend and I dined here prior to seeing a show at 8 pm. (FYI: House of Blue Leaves is seriously good.)

From the former General Manager of Le Bernardin, La Silhouette needs some work on décor but the actual menu is amazing. I personally recommend both the Wild Burgundy Snail Risotto and the Mustard Crusted Lamb Loin. The wine list is a little less robust than other high-profile restaurants but that doesn’t mean there aren’t some stellar options.

Sommelier Doreen Walker is recently new to the city (she had previously been at Steak Frites) but I was very impressed by the collection of French wines, particularly from Burgundy and Bordeaux.

The two of us yesterday selected the 2007 Private Reserve Margaux, by Chateau Kirwan. This wine paired perfectly with my lamb since it was fuller-bodied and definitely on the dryer side. There was a very earthy note that I detected with some nice spices and rosy flavors. The tannins were very smooth and I would have definitely enjoyed this wine just on its own.

So if you find yourself in the Theater District, over that cluster**** of Times Square and make a reservation at La Silhouette!

Spring Wines

Spring!

Over the weekend I attended a gathering in New York devoted to Spring wines. Thank goodness this was actually a stupendous weekend full of sunshine that felt like Spring.

The only white wine I tried was Jacob’s Creek Barossa Steingarten Riesling 2006. The color is very pale, described by the tasting notes as “straw-green.” There was a strong hint of a lime aroma with a very medium-level of acidity. I tasted a little bit of spice which made it a unique Riesling. I enjoyed it very much and would love to pair this with a light seafood.

Probably the standout wine of the evening according to the crowd was Chateau de Macard Bordeaux Superior 2009. This is a stellar blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s very ripe with a texture of blackberry and blueberry. The bouquet smells exquisite. The tasting notes also mentioned a hint of maduro tobacco. Extremely nice finish!

However my favorite wine of the evening was the Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha 2008. The Garnacha grape is extremely underrated. I think in the next five years it’s going to have a strong surge of popularity. The hints of black cherry and earth were magnificent. I would like to have this wine every night!

Enjoy spring (finally!)

Meet the Winemakers: Bo & Heidi Barrett

Chris Pine portrayed Bo in Bottle Shock

Earlier this week I was fortunate to attend a wine tasting at Astor Center with famed winemakers Bo & Heidi Barrett. You may have heard of them from their involvement in "The Judgment at Paris" when French wine critics in a blind tasting picked a California Chardonnay over a Burgundy Chardonnay. That was from Chateau Montelena! (It's pretty cool Bo was played on film by Chris Pine a.k.a. Captain Kirk.)

At the tasting, the Barretts showcased wines from Montelena as well as La Sirena, Heidi's side project in winemaking. It was a very fun event if only because Bo is probably the least pretentious wine afficianado you will ever meet. 

The first wine we tried was La Sirena Moscat Azul 2009 that tasted faintly Austrian and Germanic. There is a huge bouquet of florals and vanilla working here. The perfect picnic wine. In fact, Heidi informed us famed Napa Valley chef Michael Chiarello pairs this with a chilled asparagus salad. The perfect start to the tasting. 

Next up we have the Chateau Montelena Estate Zinfandel 2007. When you think Zinfandel you immediately picture big alcohol and booziness. Not so much with this wine. It's not as "ponderous" as the typical Zinfandel. You still get those same hints of black fruit and chocolate, but it's much more muted. An elegant table wine. 

What's not a table wine? The Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet 2002. Holy wam bam this is a great wine. Seriously Bordeaux style with that perfect blend of elegance and balance. The secondary texture of the cherry and floral bouquet comes in perfectly. THIS is a California Cabernet. 

And so there you go. After all these years, Chateau Montelena is still representing the marvel from California!

Wine Opine: A Book Review

The Trinacria: the symbol of Sicily

Over the weekend I had the pleasure of attending a Sicilian wine tasting with author Robert Camuto, who conveniently just published a book on his deep passion for Sicily. 

I was excited to attend the tasting and read Palmento because I don't have a great grasp on Sicilian wine, or even the country in general. (Except as everyone knows: "Never go in against a Sicilian when death is on the line!") After finishing the book, though, I think I can teach a course. You meet lots of oddball characters like former Mafia bosses and musicians bumming it out in Sicilian vineyards. And all the while Camuto transports you to the magical serenity of the Sicilian countryside. 

An award-winning writer from Wine Spectator and The Washington Post, Camuto is a natural for the leisurely pace of wine book writing. And while you're reading, do yourself a favor and pour something with Nero d'Avola (the most prominent red wine grape in Sicily). This is a book that's going to make you thirsty!

Wines of Chile

Thanks to Morton's for hosting!

Last week I went to a tasting of Chilean wines organized by the Guild of Sommeliers. As a devotee of the Carmenere grape I was super pumped. However,  I was also delighted to be introduced to some grapes from Chile I previously wasn't familiar with. 

The Carignan grape has traveled extensively around the world, likely originating in Aragon before landing in Sardinia and then French Languedoc. It's a grape that has also found a following in the new world, specifically Chile. The Odfjell Orzada Organic Carignan 2006 is a real gem that's easy to drink and tasted a little similar to Zinfandel with hints of raisin and prune. Made by a French winemaker in the Maule Valley (not far from Santiago), this is a higher acidity offering with some great notes of minerality. I also liked it for its raspberry jam flavor. 

My other favorite wine from the day was the Matetic Syrah 2005 from the San Antonio Valley. We also tasted the 2008 (also nice), but this 2005 vintage has all the flavors of spice, pepper and bacon fat (yes, you read that right) times a billion. I'm serious. This is a beefy wine that will make you want to dig into a huge plate of teriyaki. 

Two other Chilean wines of note: Maquis Lien 2007 and Los Vascos Le Dix 2008. Salud!

The Grand Crus of Chablis

Sun looks a little mad

Earlier today I went to a tasting at The Modern for the Grand Crus of Chablis. It was definitely one of the more spectacular tastings I’ve been to in some time. Chablis refers to the northernmost district of Burgundy made of mostly Chardonnay grapes. This is a very cool climate (trust me – you don’t go for a tan) that produces wines with high acidity and lacks a lot of the fruity flavors Chardonnay might have in a warmer place like California. The minerality of Chablis is quite unique. You get something like flint, limestone even a seashell with the terroir there. The Grand Crus we were tasting did have an influence of oak though typically Chablis relies more on stainless steel.

To the wines!

From Domaine des Malandes wine grower Lyne Marchive showed off some of her astounding Grand Cru wines including a Les Clos 2009 and the Vaudesir 1996. The textures of these two wines were quite unique, you could really smell and taste that flintiness from the terroir. However, the Les Clos had this wonderful floral and petrol quality to it that I could not shake. Aged in 100% oak barrels you can definitely get a hint of vanilla on the nose and the palate. A stupendous wine.

Next we have the Chateau Grenouilles, an estate at the foot of the Grenouilles hillside that became a part of La Chablisienne in 2003. Easily my favorite wine I tasted was the Chateau Grenouilles 2005 because of the ripeness of the subtle fruit flavors. On the nose I got green apples, grass and a stone-quality I couldn’t quite place that my host referred to as peel. On the palate the wine came off concentrated, a nice balance of fruit and acid. It was even a little butter-y and toast-y.

And kudos for choosing my favorite restaurant in the city as our hosts!

An Open Mind About Shiraz

How cool was her Leonard Nimoy impression?

Like many wine-o-philes, I subscribe to the New York Times Wine Club. (Insert stereotypical New York liberal joke here.) This month’s selection includes a 2008 Fire Block Shiraz from Clare Valley in Australia.

The catch? I’m not sure how I feel about Shiraz. Well, I appreciate it’s (ahem…) intensely rich and spicy flavor, it is however a wine that befuddles me.

So, I guess I am glad that the Wine Club included an Australian Shiraz with this month’s collection. It gives me another opportunity to evaluate its aroma and flavor. (Plus I paired it with some tangy cheese while watching Fringe. That show could make Lysol tasty.)

Clare Valley is just north of Adelaide with a climate that’s warm and dry. The Fire Block vineyard has vines that date back to 1923. According to The Times, “these ancient Shiraz vines struggle mightily here.”

So props to Bill and Noel Ireland of Fire Block for this surprisingly substantial 2008 Shiraz. Because I’m not such a connoisseur of Shiraz, some of the aromatic flavors kept me guessing. (Our Times primer notes baked plum, huckleberry and black cherry liqueur). Tasting the Shiraz I definitely felt blackberry and plum really shining through. And maybe just a hint of chocolate? And definitely heavier on the French Oak as opposed to American oak. Overall… scrumptious for a Shiraz.

And to go with such a complex show like Fringe (and that stunning Australian actress Anna Torv), definitely hit up this Shiraz.

Understanding Organic and Biodynamic Wines

Located at 155 Varick in Tribeca

Yesterday I had the pleasure of attending a dinner and panel at The City Winery in honor of their “Wine, Women and Song month.” Panelists included Lisa Granik (Master of Wine), Pascaline Lepeltier (Sommelier at Rouge Tomate) and Dane Nigro (Wine Spectator).

The event opened with Granik explaining what exactly organic and biodynamic means. A wine that is made organically tends to prohibit synthetic products and has to follow certain regulations that vary from country to country. (Sidenote: Whenever you hear a winemaker talking about how their wine is made naturally, be skeptical. There are no actual regulations for natural wine.) Biodynamic farming is all about balance and harmony and following the phases of the moon. This tends to be a bit too “hippie” for people but I think it’s pretty cool.

Joining these awesome panelists were two winemakers with organic vineyards: Coralie Delecheneau from Le Grange Tiphaine in the Loire Valley and Helen Lomazzi from Colombaia in Tuscany.

With dinner (fig glazed petite poulet), City Winery paired Coralie’s La Grange Tiphaine ‘Ad Libitum’ 2009. This is a blend of gamay, cabernet franc and malbec. It’s a great summer wine with a very hearty terroir. And with some very fine Tuscan Pecorino cheeses we had Helen’s Colombaia Rosso ‘Vigna Vecchia’ 2007. There was a hint of cherry but also some strong spice flavors like black currant and cardamom. It worked exceptionally with the Toscano Fresco.

All this month City Winery is hosting tons of events celebrating women and wine. Don’t miss out!

Louis Latour Tasting

It's a tough job, but somebody has to taste these

This afternoon I went to a tasting hosted by Maison Louis Latour, who in 2005 purchased the Simonnet-Febvre vineyard in Montbard of Burgundy. The vineyard spans over nine acres including a 2/3 acre in the Grand Cru vineyard of Les Preuses. This is no Yellow Tail!

We tasted some very fine whites including the spectacular Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, but I’m going to focus solely on the 2009 Red Burgundies. Just because. (You may have noticed I’m not the biggest white wine drinker.)

The Aloxe Corton Domaine Latour is a scrumptious Pinot Noir from Cote de Beaune that has a wonderful smell of cherry. This is a wine that is aged in oak for ten to twelve months. It will age spectacularly but for now it’s quite spicy and delightful.

And now for a real grand daddy of wine… the Corton Clos du Roi Domaine Latour (Grand Cru). All I can say is WOW! This is a wine that is just marvelous. Spectacular. Divine. Holy-cow-I-wish-I-could-drink-this-every-day. Unlike the Aloxe Corton, this is a wine that is aged for up to eighteen months. Those hues of cherries are elevated to include subtle vanilla and butterscotch. I’m not even sure I would pair it with any food that was hand-crafted by Eric Ripert or Daniel Boulud, honestly.

For more information on Louis Latour go here!

Rain, Rain Go Away!

I don't share Gene's good mood for rain

This post is sponsored my grouchiness over the fact that it’s rained buckets all day. And that really crappy type of rain that falls sideways. You know what I’m talking about, right? And with those gusts of wind you need an umbrella made of steel.

So naturally I’ve spent most of the day inside, browsing certain bottles of wine I had been saving for – you guessed it – a rainy day.

For a white I have a 2009 Luisa Ribolla Gialla from the Friuli region of Italy. It was more of an economical (read: cheap) purchase a few weeks ago. It’s very acidic and light bodied. For me I got a strong degree of lemony hues on the taste. Not very complex, so it goes well with the Real Housewives of Orange County. (I told you I’m grouchy tonight.)

On the other hand I ended my evening with one glass (OK: a glass and a half) of 2008 Diamond Ridge Pinot Noir. From Santa Barbara County in the Sonoma Coast, this is a thinner Pinot Noir than I am used to. The flavors of raspberry and cherry were very muted. Mercifully I tasted no dill so I suspect the vineyard stayed clear of American oak.

These weren’t the most stellar wines, but they certainly made my rainy day less heinous. I promise I’ll be sunnier tomorrow!

A Cabernet Franc... from Italy?

2009 d'Orsaria Cabernet Franc... in front of a Bill Maher DVD

Over the weekend I was browsing through my favorite neighborhood wine shop (check them out here!) and an impromptu tasting came up. I will never turn down a free wine tasting.

What made this particular tasting different was the wine: a Cabernet Franc from Italy. “Hmm…” I thought to myself… “Do they even have Cabernet Franc in Italy?” Apparently, they do.

Cabernet Franc is a grape varietal that originates in Bordeaux. It’s lighter than a Cabernet Sauvignon, but the two are often blended together or with Merlot. This Cabernet Franc comes from Friuli in northeastern Italy. And even more specifically the tiny village Orsaria. (Fun Fact: The name probably derives from orso which means bear in Italian – they used to roam the wilderness there!)

The wine itself is a little… funky. And I don’t mean that in a bad way. It smells very much like plum and cherries, with maybe a little bit of pepper spice. For me when I first tasted the wine I was overwhelmed by black pepper. Like, I needed a moment to take it in. On the second taste, however, the flavor of cherry really kicked into overdrive. And I am a sucker for cherries. This is a wine with a nice finish. I would definitely pair it with a lighter meat like chicken.

And there you have it. A Cabernet Franc from Italy!

Oscar Sunday

The perfect movie for the gal who really loves wine

The Super Bowl for the non-football crowd, the Oscars are finally here! I personally can’t wait to see what nominee Helena Bonham Carter wears (or doesn’t wear) to the ceremony. Her movie The King’s Speech is apparently the one to beat for Best Picture, and Colin Firth should rack up his first Oscar by the end of the evening.

And how to celebrate? Well, here are some good suggestions from Variety, who asked Alexis Kahn from the International Culinary Center on his take.  

"For Black Swan, Kahn suggests the 2007 Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs -- literally "white from black," it's a white sparkling wine made from pinot noir grapes. The Fighter demands the underdog: an American wine, the 2008 Ridge Dry Creek Valley Lytton Springs Valley Zinfandel while Inception 2006 Sauvignon Blanc "Prince in his Caves" Farina Vineyard. At $54.99, that's also a bigger budget wine for a bigger-budget film calls for a layered

127 Hours requires a drink for long journeys, Kahn says: The 1996 Broadbent Colheita Madeira. Madeira was fortified with extra alcohol by 18th century sailors to withstand extreme conditions, and this example is aged to an even tastier nutty flavor -- appropriate for a guy who decided to go canyoneering alone. 

But if you're not into alone time, The Social Network is probably your pic. Kahn suggests the 2007 Estezargues "From the Tank" Cotes-du-Rhone, a boxed wine that contains a whopping four bottles -- perfect for reliving college days.

Naturally, True Grit is paired with a Cab that contains "gritty" tannins, while The King's Speech may have the best pairing of all: an Australian Reisling, a wine yearning, Kahn enthuses, to be heard."

For me I’m actually going to go with a 2006 Pillar Rock Cabernet Sauvignon from the Stag's Leap District in Napa Valley, in honor of the cool California vibe channeled by The Kids Are All Right. (My bias: Nominee Mark Ruffalo is also my favorite actor).

And if it’s a drinking game you want, here’s Esquire’s official guide to the 2011 Oscars.  Although I think Anne Hathaway is going to change outfits at least 15 times, so be wary.

The Wino President

Maybe one day Jefferson will get his own HBO mini-series

Today we celebrate President's Day. Or at least many workplaces, post offices, and museums decide to commemorate the holiday by being closed.

So on this day, dedicated towards our country's finest leaders, why don't we raise a glass to our third President, Thomas Jefferson. After all, without him America might not look so favorably upon wine and winemaking. Did you know you can still drink wine made from the vineyard Jefferson oversaw at Monticello? Check it out here. 

When he was first constructing Jefferson Vineyards, the Virginia politician consulted with Fillipo Mazzei, an Italian winemaker. Mazzei actually told Jefferson "I do not believe that nature is so favorable to growing vines in any country as this." Thank goodness, the Italian was wrong. 

A Natural Pinot from Oregon

Those gals are a little overdressed, no?

If you were like me growing up obsessed with the game Oregon Trail, the state holds a very mythic quality of rusticism and fronteirism. Why did all those settlers brave the elements for the wild West? I never paid attention in history class so I’ll just assume they realized Oregon had the potential to produce quality and affordable wine.

A few days ago I had the pleasure of attending a tasting at Appellation with Anne Amie Vineyards winemaker Thomas Houseman. The Anne Amie Vineyards are located in Oregon’s famed Willamette Valley. And this is a winery that is LIVE certified. Essentially this means the vineyards maintains a “viticulture that is economically viable over time.” The craftsmanship of sustainability really shows through in the wines form Anne Amie.

At the tasting Thomas brought in three offerings: Riesling, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. That final wine, a 2008 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, really stood out for me. Aromas of black cherry and dark raspberry really permeate. And subtle hints of cedar emerge. One person with me also offered up thyme. That black cherry really comes to life when you finally  taste the wine. Maybe some coffee comes through as well?

After just a few sips I was hungering for a juicy Shake Shack burger to compliment the flavors. Also I imagine this would also go well with a creamy risotto… if you’re a little higher-minded than Shake Shack.

Exploring Wine at Tia Pol

Located at 205 Tenth Avenue in Chelsea

Picture it: Bustling Saturday evening on Tenth Avenue and a couple passionately in love steps into a tiny tapas restaurant looking for a table. They are ravenously hungry and the dim lighting of the place just feels so romantic. "Two please?" Oh, and how lovely that sangria smells. "The wait is about two hours." And scene.

This scenario unfolds almost every night at Tía Pol, a cozy Spanish restaurant in Chelsea. And rightfully so. The dishes are sinfully good and the all-Spanish wine list is commendable.

I could probably eat every dish off the menu every day of the week. (Waist size be damned!) But my favorites are garbanzos fritos (fried chickpeas), bocata de lomo adobado (marinated pork loin with peppers and tetilla cheese sandwich), and pinchos morunos (lamb skewers with spices). These are small plates so the delicate morsels leave you satisfied but not stuffed.

But what to drink with all this?

As I mentioned before, Spain is what’s on tap at Tía Pol. I like to begin every visit with a glass of Cava, a sparkling wine that’s similar to Champagne but with more balanced flavors. The Cava Juvé y Camps Brut Rose is perfect for a mild February day that hints spring may be around the corner. The bright strawberry and raspberry flavors really tickle the nose and settle into your palate well.

After Cava I opted for a Vina Sastre Ribera del duoro 2008. This wine comes from a region of Spain known as Castilla y Leon, famous for its Rioja and the Tempranillo grape. Principally the flavors of a dark blackberries and raspberries knocked me out. And then the aroma of vanilla came through. Maybe just a tiny hint of tobacco? This is a wine aged in some fine oak barrels for sure. This is a glass of wine that goes down very smoothly and doesn’t need a super hearty meat.

So if you’re in Chelsea for a gallery reception, PUT DOWN THE CHEAP WINE! Observe the new works of art and schmooze with the glitteratti. And then head over to Tía Pol to indulge in fine Spanish wine and bold tapas.

Off The Beaten Path: Portugal

Subtle vanilla works well here

Mention wine from Porgutal to just anybody and they have one image: port. And that’s a travesty. I’m pretty convinced Portugal is on the precipice of really breaking into the next tier of wine-producing countries.

Unlike France or Italy, where a single-varietal grape blend is common, Portuguese wine blends several grapes. Today I’m trying Esporao Reserva DOC Alentejo 2007.

Alentejo produces the most wine in the country. (Also: it’s where most corks originate.) The three grapes used for this blend are Aragonez, Trincadeira and Cabernet. You might know Aragonez from it’s other name in Spain: Tempranillo. Trincadeira is also known as Tinta Amarela and goes into most Port wines; it is very full-bodied and floral.

I found this wine very elegant and full-bodied. On the nose I got blackberries and herbs, possibly even just a hint of tobacco. And yet the floral aspects of Trincadeira really came through on my first sip. I was surprised that I even got a note of vanilla coming through.

Though Portuguese wines are still a mystery towards most customers in the United States, I still think you should start taking a chance on this country’s wines. It will be unfamiliar at first, but after a few sips you’ll really begin to appreciate the different herbs and spices that arise from these grapes.

Happy Valentine's Day!

Do NOT drink and drive, Teddy!

In honor of Valentine’s Day I thought I’d give some love to a wine I actually don’t like so much: Zinfandel. (But just today when we’re supposed to be celebrating love!) So I bring you the 2007 Meadowcroft Zinfandel.

Tom Meadowcroft began his career in the wine industry by working the 1979 harvest in Bordeaux. From there he worked at wineries in Washington and Napa Valley. As a vineyard manager, he focused on sustainable farming. And then, he began his own personal collection. 

This particular Zinfandel comes from Sonoma County, which is west of Napa with an abundance of climates. The first thing I smelled when I put my nose to the glass was cedar. Literally, it just jumped out at me. On a second sniff you may also gather aromas of pepper and clover.

There are hints of a dark blackberry as you taste the wine. Though this is not a smooth wine; in fact, I’d describe it as leathery. And leathery isn’t always a bad thing. This Zinfandel would pair nicely with some ribs or saltier cheeses. (And for those of you celebrating Valentine’s alone this year: the alcohol content is quite high.)

The Zinfandel grape is genetically equivalent to Crljenak Kastelanski (Croatia) and Primitivo in the south of Italy. How it got the name Zinfandel in the United States, I have not a clue.

(FYI: The honeybee on the Meadowcroft logo symbolizes all the hard work and diligence it takes to create a fine wine!)

California Dreamin'

Just... a few more weeks... until spring

It has been an epically cold and snowy winter in New York so far. And yet, I may be feeling just a twinge of spring on the horizon. The snow is finally melting, the trench coats are emerging from the storage bins, and all I want to do is pretend I’m in California right now. But I’m going to hold off on the rose. It’s still February after all.

To quench my thirst for classic California I finally uncorked a 2008 Turn Four Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley. Turn Four is a second label from the owners of the Bennett Lane Winery, located at the northern edges of Napa Valley. It smells phenomenal with flavors of plum, blackberry, cherry and just a hint of vanilla. And because this is a second label wine (less expensive aging, grapes still from the winery), this is a real bargain at about $20.

  

While you may also smell or taste some cedar or sage, the minerality of the wine is by far superceded by those fruit-forward flavors. On a second taste they really knock you out. This wine is silky. It's absolutely wonderful to enjoy on a leisurely afternoon.

We're still a couple of weeks until spring, but hold on to this stellar Cabernet to tide you over until then.

A New Zealand Wine Tasting

Sadly that red cup is for spitting

Today I had the great pleasure of attending a tasting at Tribeca Grill for Villa Maria Estate, a very prestigious winery in New Zealand. The winery is getting ready to celebrate its’ fiftieth anniversary. Mazel tov! Their group winemaker Alastair Maling has enjoyed  a prolific career in winemaking. Ten years ago he passed the International Master of Wine Exam and in 2002 he accepted his current position at Villa Maria. It was very thrilling to hear him speak about a selection of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noirs. (It helps that the New Zealand accent reminds me of Flight of the Conchords.)

Sauvignon Blanc 
So, I’ll admit. I’m not a huge fan of this particular wine. It’s the premier grape for New Zealand. This worried me early in the tasting. This changed when we came to the 2009 Single Vineyard Taylors Pass Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. It’s very restrained for an acidic wine, but has this concept of finesse. Along with passion fruit (a staple for Sauvignon Blanc), I also tasted a distinct flavor of minerality. A lot of this comes from the vineyard’s location on the Awatere River where the soil goes from silt to stony gravel. This really challenged my definition of a New Zealand white. According to Alastair the goal of any New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is to create “a medley of flavors that run across the palate.” With this bottle, mission accomplished.

Pinot Noir  
The Pinot Noir grape benefits from old vines. This is a problem for New Zealand where vines are quite new. And yet, I discovered a really excellent Pinot from Villa Maria. Overall, Pinot Noir in New Zealand derives complexity from chillier tannins. The flavors of red cherry and black fruits emerge, but the texture of the palate is much silkier and velvety. The 2007 Reserve Marlborough Pinot Noir comes from three vineyards. It’s very rustic and comes across more like a Burgundy Pinot. It helps that 2007 was a fantastic vintage for New Zealand. This is also a vintage that would benefit from only five to seven years aging (any more and the purity of the fruit would be lost). 

And so there you have it. Be sure to check out New Zealand wines -- especially those that come from Villa Maria! 

Ramona Singer Pinot Grigio

 

For when you really just need your own personal Turtle Time, now you can turn to Ramona's Pinot Grigio! Side effects include crazy eyes, cat fights with Brooklyn husbands named Simon, and excessive dancing. It's the perfect Valentine's Day gift!  

This is Turtle Time

What the Robert Parker News Really Means

Over the weekend there was a tremor in California. Thankfully, it had nothing to do with an earthquake. Instead it was announced that Robert Parker, founder of Wine Advocate, is relinquishing his mantle as kingmaker of California wines.

(History lesson: Parker really did define American wine criticism when Wine Advocate began rating wines on a 100-point schedule. Even though his influence may have waned recently, a stellar rating from WA really is a seal of excellence for any producer.)

And there is much to be said about the Parkerization of California wines. Critics of his note that he cares too much for heavy oak (OK – that’s my criticism) and is too much of a Francophile. Regardless, he probably single-handedly caused the great cult of California wines from the 90’s (i.e. Screaming Eagle). I know plenty of people who drop a lot of cash on wines that rate over 95 from Robert Parker. Heck, I’ve done that.  

And though the news is shocking, it’s probably not going to alter the California market that much. Antonio Galloni, who had been in charge of Italian wines, is now going to move towards California and. According to The San Francisco Gate here’s what we can maybe except from Galloni:  

…Appreciates stylish but not overly international wines; fond of traditional Barolos (Bartolo Mascarello jumped in its scores, while Elio Grasso and even Burlotto are getting some love) with some enthusiasm for more fashionable styles (Roberto Voerzio; Gaja) and not afraid to call out the use of oak (Ceretto); willing to give much love to the stylish Super Tuscans (Sassicaia, Tignanello); but also willing to give attention to Italy’s more esoteric, avant-garde efforts — Radikon, COS, and Sandro Fay, for instance.  In general, the focus on Italy means a lot more interest in wines that are appropriate for the table, rather than the trophy case...

Got all that? Yeah, neither did I. Basically I think this is good news for California. Fringe, small producers are going to get their shot to move into the big league and the state will probably get a more diverse range of star vintages. 

A 1997 Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon (a 100-point wine)

Off the Beaten Path: South Africa

Sophisticated tannins here

Wine has been around for quite a long time. In fact, it predates footwear. Most likely the first areas that made wine are present-day Georgia and Armenia. Eventually Europe got in the action and within the last 500 years France and Italy have dominated any discussion of premier wines. And that’s just not fair.  

So in this segment we’re going to spotlight regions that don’t get the same fanfare. Today we’re focusing on South Africa.  

South Africa is a top ten producer of wine in the world, and exports more tons of wine than Australia. Most of the wine from the country centers around Cape Town in the regions of Paarl, Worcester, and Stellenbosch. These regions are influenced by both the Atlantic and Indian Oceans and thus feel more like the Mediterranean. The wine is harvested in February and March (remember it’s the Southern hemisphere!) and depending on the elevation of the winery, can feel like Napa Valley (a warmer region) or Burgundy (a cooler region).  

Today I’ve got a 2005 Uva Mira Cellar Selection Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon. This particular winery is located on the slopes of the Helderberg Mountains in the Stellenbosch region. This would make it a cooler climate wine, which means there is less sugar and intense fruit aromas. 

But just because this wine isn’t as fruit-forward as something you’d find in Napa doesn’t mean you can’t smell or taste the black fruits. The black cherries and raspberries are very much enhanced by the earthy texture of the wine. There are a lot of wild spices working here to create a very delicious medium-bodied wine.

And there you have it. No need to be afraid of a wine from a region you've never had before. Although if anybody ever offers you wine from Antarctica, be wary! 

Exploring Wine at Gramercy Tavern

Located at 42 East 20th Street

Ah, Gramercy Tavern. It’s one of the most iconic restaurants in New York. It ushered in an unprecedented revitalization of the classic American tavern in this city when it opened in 1994. It looks classy; it feels classy; hell it even smells classy. Gramercy Tavern is fine dining at its best.

The beverage director of Gramercy Tavern is Juliette Pope, who has worked in many capacities with Union Hospitality Group over the past decade. At Gramercy Tavern she worked under Paul Grieco (of Hearth and Terroir fame), who provided her with a solid foundation in wine. It’s really paid off: Gramercy Tavern is recognized by Wine Spectator under the “Best of Award of Excellence.”

Before moving to Manhattan, though, Pope worked in Oregon at Yamhill’s Belle Pente (which produces some of the highest quality wines from the state). So I found it fitting that to pair with my pork croquette to choose a 2007 Belle Pente Murto Vineyard Pinot Noir. A subtle nod to the Willamette Valley roots of the esteemed beverage director.

Immediately I could smell the raspberry and blackberry flavors of the Pinot. And maybe a hint of currant? Beyond that intoxicating aroma the kicker for me is the texture of the wine. Just one word: silky! For being a new world wine it sure tastes spicy and earthy. I only had one glass – I should have asked for a bottle to take home!

I went diligently through the wine list, nerdily picking out bottles I would choose when I come back. Too bad I don’t have a Valentine this year, Gramercy Tavern would be one ideal date spot! 

Whites

Fritsch, Schlossberg, 2009, Wagram Austria  $50

Vouvray Sec, Foreau, 2007, Loire Valley, France  $68

Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Montenidoli, Tradizionale, 2007, Tuscany, Italy  $52

Saint Aubin, Prudhon, 1er Cru Les Castets, 2005, Côte de Beaune  #75

Dönnhoff Spätlese, Oberhäuser Brücke, 2004, Nahe, Germany #105 *splurge 

Reds

Failla, 2008, Sonoma Coast, California  $78

Grosjean, Tzeriat, 2007, Valle d’Aosta, Italy  $68

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Petitot, Les Poisets, 2007, Côte de Nuits  $78

Carmignano, Villa di Capezzana, 2005, Tuscany  $66

Frog’s Leap, 2007, Napa Valley, California  $85

Mas Jullien (Syrah/Grenache), 2005, Languedoc, France  $92

Cheval Blanc, Le Petit Cheval, 2003, Saint-Emilion  $260 *this what I’m going to buy when I make a million dollars