Wine Opine: A Book Review

Delve into the fascinating world of rare vintages

 

It’s hard to imagine that a non-fiction account about a bottle of wine could be such a page-turner. However, Benjamin Wallace’s The Billionaire's Vinegar: The Mystery of the World's Most Expensive Bottle of Wine is just that.

The bottle in question is a Chateau Lafite from 1787 allegedly owned by Thomas Jefferson. Auctioned off by Christie’s in 1985 for a dazzling new record of over $150,000, the story made headlines and ushered in a new era of fawning over rare vintages. 

What kicks this story into action is the bottle at the center of it all is faker than a Real Housewife of Beverly Hills’ face. Wallace crafts a compelling narrative filled with shady characters and cons in a setting that is purportedly sophisticated and elegant, the pinnacle of high society.

The details Wallace puts into his account are simply fascinating. To create a fraudulent vintage, the German wine dealer Hardy Rodenstock had to rely on laser-etching, ultraviolet-tagging and a special adhesive glue for the label. Faring no better in this story is Christie’s, seemingly at ease with letting patrons believe they were purchasing authentic vintages.

Beyond that Chateau Lafite I suppose this is also a story about wealth and greed, although isn’t it always? Auction houses now have methods in place to prevent any forgeries from making it into their cellars. However it’s my opinion you’re better putting your money into a savings account than a 1959 Chateau Mouton Rothschild.

Exploring Wine at Salumeria Rosi

Located at 283 Amsterdam Avenue

There are many great places for a vegetarian in New York City, Salumeria Rosi is not one of those places. Immediately when you walk through the door you are met with a fine display of mortadella, porchetta, prosciutto and other fine meats. This is heaven for a meat lover.

Along with being a very fine salumi shop, this Upper West Side favorite also has a nice restaurant on the side. A nice restaurant, with a nice wine list. Ahh… now we’re talking! In the spirit of Italian Wine Week, it’s time we all take a moment to appreciate the virtues of a fine Tuscan wine. Chianti is probably the most famous region of Tuscany (I blame Hannibal Lecter), but it shouldn’t overshadow Brunello di Montalcino.

The wine I tried at Salumeria Rosi earlier was a 2008 Banfi Rosso di Montalcino. This is 100% Sangiovese from the same region as Brunello di Montalcino, but this wine is only aged six months in oak and just one year before release. This comes in handy for a winery facing a less than ideal vintage.

Sangiovese is the primary grape for red wines in Tuscany. (And it’s a seriously historical wine that likely dates all the way back to the Etruscans in Rome.) This particular wine has a gorgeous ruby-red color with a perfect body. I immediately tasted cherries and raspberries; for an Old World wine it comes off very fruit-forward. It’s going to go with so many dishes on the Menu di Formaggi.

Definitely take advantage of Salumeria Rosi before Italian Wine Week passes by, you won’t regret it!

(Fun Fact: The interior of Salumeria Rosi was created by the famous production designer Dante Ferretti – he was responsible for making Gangs of New York so realistic!)

Happy Australia Day!

Australia is the fourth largest exporter of wines in the world

For those of you celebrating with a nice Shiraz from Barossa, cheers! It's currently snowing here in New York so I suppose it's comforting to know that Down Under it's probably quite nice.

Are You Ready For Some Football?

This is actually a tough look to pull off

Some of us in New York are a little more passionate about today’s football games than others. (Although like Bart Scott, I too can’t wait.)

For a lot of folks, football is synonymous with beer. I too enjoy the occasional round of Blue Moon, Magic Hat Circus Boy or Brooklyner Weisse. (That last brew can be found just next door at The Brooklyn Brewery.) But if you want to enjoy wine with your football, then I’ve got some options for you. How would I decide what wine to pair with each team? Easy, it’s all about the food!

Now Chicago is renowned for deep-dish pizza. On those blustery winter days, nothing provides warmth like a delicious slice from Gino’s. If you want your wine more medium go for a Chianti; of if you want it full-bodied (maybe you like pepperoni) a Syrah. Compared to the pizza, these wines are as smooth as Brian Urlacher’s head. (Hmm… that’s a terrible visual for wine-drinking.)

Besides the Packers, Green Bay is known for only one other thing: cheese! If you find yourself amongst cheese-heads rooting for Favre’s heir apparent Aaron Rodgers, then I suggest a Chardonnay (Cheddar), Riesling (Gouda) or Chianti (Mozzarella). 

New York, New York. If you can make it here, you can make it anywhere. And what does New York make better than any other city? Bagels! If I had an array of H&H bagels topped with schmear and lox, I’d definitely pair that with a Pinot Gris from Oregon or California. (Unlike the Italian Pinot Grigio, the American Pinot Gris is a little spicier and less sweet.) 

And that leaves the Steelers. Hmm… Pittsburgh. Doesn’t really scream any particular snack or cuisine unless you count… Heinz Ketchup? Let’s go with that. If you’ve got a juicy burger with all the fixings, I’d go with a Cabernet Sauvignon.

Yes, it is possible to enjoy a nice glass of wine with football. Though if you get any jeers from other fans you’re on your own!

Brrrr

Central Park January 2011

I’ve been living in the Northeast for over six years now, but I’m still a native Texan at heart. At least when it dips below freezing! According to the meteorologists here the high for today is 23. And that’s the high! Yikes! This cold spell is scheduled to last a few more days, which means along with donning my warmest scarves, hats and mittens; I’m going to need a perfect warm-me-up wine.

For me a warm-me-up wine achieves this status with two basic requirements. First, it must be full-bodied: rich and complex with a taste that lingers. Second, it must be from the Southern Hemisphere (where right now it’s summer.)

My warm-me-up wine for today is a 2006 Concha Y Toro Merlot Marques de Casa Concha. (Try saying that five times fast.) Primarily you are going to smell plum and a variety of wintry spices. It smells so tantalizing it’s going to take you a few minutes to process! When you finally taste the Merlot you are going to find a pleasant array of blueberries, cherries, and dark chocolate. This is a tannic and aromatic wine with a flavor that is going to last for a long time. 

Warm up with this!

For me this is a quintessential Chilean wine in that you have a good mixture of fruit and earthiness. This would pair excellently with steaks and roasts. Maybe even a zesty pasta with a fierce, meaty sauce.

This particular wine hails from the Rapel Valley, an extremely large area of the Valle Central (Chile’s most well-known region) where the climate and soil lends itself well to Cabernet and Merlot. Chile is extremely unique for wine production for its abundance of diverse climates. This particular 2006 Merlot was aged fourteen months in French oak, making it seem even more like an Old World wine.

Spring is still several weeks away, so for now bundle up, watch for icy patches, and enjoy a lovely warm-me-up wine!

And For Tonight's Episode...

As I’ve mentioned I love Cougar Town, and not just because the main character Jules Cobb will use any occasion for a glass of red wine. (Yes, the term “breakfast wine” has even been used.) The show is actually very funny and Courteney Cox is allowed to display a comedic range well beyond Monica Gellar.

So every Wednesday I’m always faced with a very tough decision. What wine am I going to pair with tonight’s episode? 

Today I’m feeling a Domaine de Boischampt Juliénas 2006. To go with the kooky, eccentric vibe of the show I’m thinking Gamay. While often overlooked as a grape varietal in favor of that behemoth Pinot Noir, the Gamay grape actually has a lot to offer in both texture and taste. 

For anyone who despises full-bodied reds, Gamay is perfect you. There’s a hint of cinnamon with an overwhelming burst of raspberry flavor. This particular wine, hailing from Juliénas also contains a distinct aroma of peonies. And this is one of the few reds that decanting is unnecessary. In fact, it tastes better chilled. (Tonight in New York I left this bottle outside on my porch for about fifteen minutes and it was ready to go!)  

If you’re watching a light, fun show like Cougar Town, hold off on the Pinot for just one night and try a refreshing Gamay. And while you’re at it, pair it with some Brie. It’s delicious!

(Fun Fact: One person who hated Gamay was Phillipe the Bold who forbade the planting of the grape in the main region of Burgundy, pushing it southward to Beaujolais. Some people will never see beyond Pinot Noir!)

An introduction

What exactly makes someone a wine lover? I certainly have no clue! But I promise that if you even have a pinch of an interest in wine then this is the blog for you. No fussy sommelier talk here - or at least it'll be minimal - just a goodhearted, frank discussion on wines I pair with meals, wines I drink reading a good book, or the red wine I specifically choose to watch Cougar Town with every Wednesday.