A Cabernet Franc... from Italy?

2009 d'Orsaria Cabernet Franc... in front of a Bill Maher DVD

Over the weekend I was browsing through my favorite neighborhood wine shop (check them out here!) and an impromptu tasting came up. I will never turn down a free wine tasting.

What made this particular tasting different was the wine: a Cabernet Franc from Italy. “Hmm…” I thought to myself… “Do they even have Cabernet Franc in Italy?” Apparently, they do.

Cabernet Franc is a grape varietal that originates in Bordeaux. It’s lighter than a Cabernet Sauvignon, but the two are often blended together or with Merlot. This Cabernet Franc comes from Friuli in northeastern Italy. And even more specifically the tiny village Orsaria. (Fun Fact: The name probably derives from orso which means bear in Italian – they used to roam the wilderness there!)

The wine itself is a little… funky. And I don’t mean that in a bad way. It smells very much like plum and cherries, with maybe a little bit of pepper spice. For me when I first tasted the wine I was overwhelmed by black pepper. Like, I needed a moment to take it in. On the second taste, however, the flavor of cherry really kicked into overdrive. And I am a sucker for cherries. This is a wine with a nice finish. I would definitely pair it with a lighter meat like chicken.

And there you have it. A Cabernet Franc from Italy!

Oscar Sunday

The perfect movie for the gal who really loves wine

The Super Bowl for the non-football crowd, the Oscars are finally here! I personally can’t wait to see what nominee Helena Bonham Carter wears (or doesn’t wear) to the ceremony. Her movie The King’s Speech is apparently the one to beat for Best Picture, and Colin Firth should rack up his first Oscar by the end of the evening.

And how to celebrate? Well, here are some good suggestions from Variety, who asked Alexis Kahn from the International Culinary Center on his take.  

"For Black Swan, Kahn suggests the 2007 Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs -- literally "white from black," it's a white sparkling wine made from pinot noir grapes. The Fighter demands the underdog: an American wine, the 2008 Ridge Dry Creek Valley Lytton Springs Valley Zinfandel while Inception 2006 Sauvignon Blanc "Prince in his Caves" Farina Vineyard. At $54.99, that's also a bigger budget wine for a bigger-budget film calls for a layered

127 Hours requires a drink for long journeys, Kahn says: The 1996 Broadbent Colheita Madeira. Madeira was fortified with extra alcohol by 18th century sailors to withstand extreme conditions, and this example is aged to an even tastier nutty flavor -- appropriate for a guy who decided to go canyoneering alone. 

But if you're not into alone time, The Social Network is probably your pic. Kahn suggests the 2007 Estezargues "From the Tank" Cotes-du-Rhone, a boxed wine that contains a whopping four bottles -- perfect for reliving college days.

Naturally, True Grit is paired with a Cab that contains "gritty" tannins, while The King's Speech may have the best pairing of all: an Australian Reisling, a wine yearning, Kahn enthuses, to be heard."

For me I’m actually going to go with a 2006 Pillar Rock Cabernet Sauvignon from the Stag's Leap District in Napa Valley, in honor of the cool California vibe channeled by The Kids Are All Right. (My bias: Nominee Mark Ruffalo is also my favorite actor).

And if it’s a drinking game you want, here’s Esquire’s official guide to the 2011 Oscars.  Although I think Anne Hathaway is going to change outfits at least 15 times, so be wary.

The Wino President

Maybe one day Jefferson will get his own HBO mini-series

Today we celebrate President's Day. Or at least many workplaces, post offices, and museums decide to commemorate the holiday by being closed.

So on this day, dedicated towards our country's finest leaders, why don't we raise a glass to our third President, Thomas Jefferson. After all, without him America might not look so favorably upon wine and winemaking. Did you know you can still drink wine made from the vineyard Jefferson oversaw at Monticello? Check it out here. 

When he was first constructing Jefferson Vineyards, the Virginia politician consulted with Fillipo Mazzei, an Italian winemaker. Mazzei actually told Jefferson "I do not believe that nature is so favorable to growing vines in any country as this." Thank goodness, the Italian was wrong. 

A Natural Pinot from Oregon

Those gals are a little overdressed, no?

If you were like me growing up obsessed with the game Oregon Trail, the state holds a very mythic quality of rusticism and fronteirism. Why did all those settlers brave the elements for the wild West? I never paid attention in history class so I’ll just assume they realized Oregon had the potential to produce quality and affordable wine.

A few days ago I had the pleasure of attending a tasting at Appellation with Anne Amie Vineyards winemaker Thomas Houseman. The Anne Amie Vineyards are located in Oregon’s famed Willamette Valley. And this is a winery that is LIVE certified. Essentially this means the vineyards maintains a “viticulture that is economically viable over time.” The craftsmanship of sustainability really shows through in the wines form Anne Amie.

At the tasting Thomas brought in three offerings: Riesling, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. That final wine, a 2008 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, really stood out for me. Aromas of black cherry and dark raspberry really permeate. And subtle hints of cedar emerge. One person with me also offered up thyme. That black cherry really comes to life when you finally  taste the wine. Maybe some coffee comes through as well?

After just a few sips I was hungering for a juicy Shake Shack burger to compliment the flavors. Also I imagine this would also go well with a creamy risotto… if you’re a little higher-minded than Shake Shack.

Exploring Wine at Tia Pol

Located at 205 Tenth Avenue in Chelsea

Picture it: Bustling Saturday evening on Tenth Avenue and a couple passionately in love steps into a tiny tapas restaurant looking for a table. They are ravenously hungry and the dim lighting of the place just feels so romantic. "Two please?" Oh, and how lovely that sangria smells. "The wait is about two hours." And scene.

This scenario unfolds almost every night at Tía Pol, a cozy Spanish restaurant in Chelsea. And rightfully so. The dishes are sinfully good and the all-Spanish wine list is commendable.

I could probably eat every dish off the menu every day of the week. (Waist size be damned!) But my favorites are garbanzos fritos (fried chickpeas), bocata de lomo adobado (marinated pork loin with peppers and tetilla cheese sandwich), and pinchos morunos (lamb skewers with spices). These are small plates so the delicate morsels leave you satisfied but not stuffed.

But what to drink with all this?

As I mentioned before, Spain is what’s on tap at Tía Pol. I like to begin every visit with a glass of Cava, a sparkling wine that’s similar to Champagne but with more balanced flavors. The Cava Juvé y Camps Brut Rose is perfect for a mild February day that hints spring may be around the corner. The bright strawberry and raspberry flavors really tickle the nose and settle into your palate well.

After Cava I opted for a Vina Sastre Ribera del duoro 2008. This wine comes from a region of Spain known as Castilla y Leon, famous for its Rioja and the Tempranillo grape. Principally the flavors of a dark blackberries and raspberries knocked me out. And then the aroma of vanilla came through. Maybe just a tiny hint of tobacco? This is a wine aged in some fine oak barrels for sure. This is a glass of wine that goes down very smoothly and doesn’t need a super hearty meat.

So if you’re in Chelsea for a gallery reception, PUT DOWN THE CHEAP WINE! Observe the new works of art and schmooze with the glitteratti. And then head over to Tía Pol to indulge in fine Spanish wine and bold tapas.

Off The Beaten Path: Portugal

Subtle vanilla works well here

Mention wine from Porgutal to just anybody and they have one image: port. And that’s a travesty. I’m pretty convinced Portugal is on the precipice of really breaking into the next tier of wine-producing countries.

Unlike France or Italy, where a single-varietal grape blend is common, Portuguese wine blends several grapes. Today I’m trying Esporao Reserva DOC Alentejo 2007.

Alentejo produces the most wine in the country. (Also: it’s where most corks originate.) The three grapes used for this blend are Aragonez, Trincadeira and Cabernet. You might know Aragonez from it’s other name in Spain: Tempranillo. Trincadeira is also known as Tinta Amarela and goes into most Port wines; it is very full-bodied and floral.

I found this wine very elegant and full-bodied. On the nose I got blackberries and herbs, possibly even just a hint of tobacco. And yet the floral aspects of Trincadeira really came through on my first sip. I was surprised that I even got a note of vanilla coming through.

Though Portuguese wines are still a mystery towards most customers in the United States, I still think you should start taking a chance on this country’s wines. It will be unfamiliar at first, but after a few sips you’ll really begin to appreciate the different herbs and spices that arise from these grapes.

Happy Valentine's Day!

Do NOT drink and drive, Teddy!

In honor of Valentine’s Day I thought I’d give some love to a wine I actually don’t like so much: Zinfandel. (But just today when we’re supposed to be celebrating love!) So I bring you the 2007 Meadowcroft Zinfandel.

Tom Meadowcroft began his career in the wine industry by working the 1979 harvest in Bordeaux. From there he worked at wineries in Washington and Napa Valley. As a vineyard manager, he focused on sustainable farming. And then, he began his own personal collection. 

This particular Zinfandel comes from Sonoma County, which is west of Napa with an abundance of climates. The first thing I smelled when I put my nose to the glass was cedar. Literally, it just jumped out at me. On a second sniff you may also gather aromas of pepper and clover.

There are hints of a dark blackberry as you taste the wine. Though this is not a smooth wine; in fact, I’d describe it as leathery. And leathery isn’t always a bad thing. This Zinfandel would pair nicely with some ribs or saltier cheeses. (And for those of you celebrating Valentine’s alone this year: the alcohol content is quite high.)

The Zinfandel grape is genetically equivalent to Crljenak Kastelanski (Croatia) and Primitivo in the south of Italy. How it got the name Zinfandel in the United States, I have not a clue.

(FYI: The honeybee on the Meadowcroft logo symbolizes all the hard work and diligence it takes to create a fine wine!)

California Dreamin'

Just... a few more weeks... until spring

It has been an epically cold and snowy winter in New York so far. And yet, I may be feeling just a twinge of spring on the horizon. The snow is finally melting, the trench coats are emerging from the storage bins, and all I want to do is pretend I’m in California right now. But I’m going to hold off on the rose. It’s still February after all.

To quench my thirst for classic California I finally uncorked a 2008 Turn Four Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley. Turn Four is a second label from the owners of the Bennett Lane Winery, located at the northern edges of Napa Valley. It smells phenomenal with flavors of plum, blackberry, cherry and just a hint of vanilla. And because this is a second label wine (less expensive aging, grapes still from the winery), this is a real bargain at about $20.

  

While you may also smell or taste some cedar or sage, the minerality of the wine is by far superceded by those fruit-forward flavors. On a second taste they really knock you out. This wine is silky. It's absolutely wonderful to enjoy on a leisurely afternoon.

We're still a couple of weeks until spring, but hold on to this stellar Cabernet to tide you over until then.

A New Zealand Wine Tasting

Sadly that red cup is for spitting

Today I had the great pleasure of attending a tasting at Tribeca Grill for Villa Maria Estate, a very prestigious winery in New Zealand. The winery is getting ready to celebrate its’ fiftieth anniversary. Mazel tov! Their group winemaker Alastair Maling has enjoyed  a prolific career in winemaking. Ten years ago he passed the International Master of Wine Exam and in 2002 he accepted his current position at Villa Maria. It was very thrilling to hear him speak about a selection of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noirs. (It helps that the New Zealand accent reminds me of Flight of the Conchords.)

Sauvignon Blanc 
So, I’ll admit. I’m not a huge fan of this particular wine. It’s the premier grape for New Zealand. This worried me early in the tasting. This changed when we came to the 2009 Single Vineyard Taylors Pass Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. It’s very restrained for an acidic wine, but has this concept of finesse. Along with passion fruit (a staple for Sauvignon Blanc), I also tasted a distinct flavor of minerality. A lot of this comes from the vineyard’s location on the Awatere River where the soil goes from silt to stony gravel. This really challenged my definition of a New Zealand white. According to Alastair the goal of any New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is to create “a medley of flavors that run across the palate.” With this bottle, mission accomplished.

Pinot Noir  
The Pinot Noir grape benefits from old vines. This is a problem for New Zealand where vines are quite new. And yet, I discovered a really excellent Pinot from Villa Maria. Overall, Pinot Noir in New Zealand derives complexity from chillier tannins. The flavors of red cherry and black fruits emerge, but the texture of the palate is much silkier and velvety. The 2007 Reserve Marlborough Pinot Noir comes from three vineyards. It’s very rustic and comes across more like a Burgundy Pinot. It helps that 2007 was a fantastic vintage for New Zealand. This is also a vintage that would benefit from only five to seven years aging (any more and the purity of the fruit would be lost). 

And so there you have it. Be sure to check out New Zealand wines -- especially those that come from Villa Maria! 

Ramona Singer Pinot Grigio

 

For when you really just need your own personal Turtle Time, now you can turn to Ramona's Pinot Grigio! Side effects include crazy eyes, cat fights with Brooklyn husbands named Simon, and excessive dancing. It's the perfect Valentine's Day gift!  

This is Turtle Time

What the Robert Parker News Really Means

Over the weekend there was a tremor in California. Thankfully, it had nothing to do with an earthquake. Instead it was announced that Robert Parker, founder of Wine Advocate, is relinquishing his mantle as kingmaker of California wines.

(History lesson: Parker really did define American wine criticism when Wine Advocate began rating wines on a 100-point schedule. Even though his influence may have waned recently, a stellar rating from WA really is a seal of excellence for any producer.)

And there is much to be said about the Parkerization of California wines. Critics of his note that he cares too much for heavy oak (OK – that’s my criticism) and is too much of a Francophile. Regardless, he probably single-handedly caused the great cult of California wines from the 90’s (i.e. Screaming Eagle). I know plenty of people who drop a lot of cash on wines that rate over 95 from Robert Parker. Heck, I’ve done that.  

And though the news is shocking, it’s probably not going to alter the California market that much. Antonio Galloni, who had been in charge of Italian wines, is now going to move towards California and. According to The San Francisco Gate here’s what we can maybe except from Galloni:  

…Appreciates stylish but not overly international wines; fond of traditional Barolos (Bartolo Mascarello jumped in its scores, while Elio Grasso and even Burlotto are getting some love) with some enthusiasm for more fashionable styles (Roberto Voerzio; Gaja) and not afraid to call out the use of oak (Ceretto); willing to give much love to the stylish Super Tuscans (Sassicaia, Tignanello); but also willing to give attention to Italy’s more esoteric, avant-garde efforts — Radikon, COS, and Sandro Fay, for instance.  In general, the focus on Italy means a lot more interest in wines that are appropriate for the table, rather than the trophy case...

Got all that? Yeah, neither did I. Basically I think this is good news for California. Fringe, small producers are going to get their shot to move into the big league and the state will probably get a more diverse range of star vintages. 

A 1997 Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon (a 100-point wine)

Off the Beaten Path: South Africa

Sophisticated tannins here

Wine has been around for quite a long time. In fact, it predates footwear. Most likely the first areas that made wine are present-day Georgia and Armenia. Eventually Europe got in the action and within the last 500 years France and Italy have dominated any discussion of premier wines. And that’s just not fair.  

So in this segment we’re going to spotlight regions that don’t get the same fanfare. Today we’re focusing on South Africa.  

South Africa is a top ten producer of wine in the world, and exports more tons of wine than Australia. Most of the wine from the country centers around Cape Town in the regions of Paarl, Worcester, and Stellenbosch. These regions are influenced by both the Atlantic and Indian Oceans and thus feel more like the Mediterranean. The wine is harvested in February and March (remember it’s the Southern hemisphere!) and depending on the elevation of the winery, can feel like Napa Valley (a warmer region) or Burgundy (a cooler region).  

Today I’ve got a 2005 Uva Mira Cellar Selection Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon. This particular winery is located on the slopes of the Helderberg Mountains in the Stellenbosch region. This would make it a cooler climate wine, which means there is less sugar and intense fruit aromas. 

But just because this wine isn’t as fruit-forward as something you’d find in Napa doesn’t mean you can’t smell or taste the black fruits. The black cherries and raspberries are very much enhanced by the earthy texture of the wine. There are a lot of wild spices working here to create a very delicious medium-bodied wine.

And there you have it. No need to be afraid of a wine from a region you've never had before. Although if anybody ever offers you wine from Antarctica, be wary! 

Exploring Wine at Gramercy Tavern

Located at 42 East 20th Street

Ah, Gramercy Tavern. It’s one of the most iconic restaurants in New York. It ushered in an unprecedented revitalization of the classic American tavern in this city when it opened in 1994. It looks classy; it feels classy; hell it even smells classy. Gramercy Tavern is fine dining at its best.

The beverage director of Gramercy Tavern is Juliette Pope, who has worked in many capacities with Union Hospitality Group over the past decade. At Gramercy Tavern she worked under Paul Grieco (of Hearth and Terroir fame), who provided her with a solid foundation in wine. It’s really paid off: Gramercy Tavern is recognized by Wine Spectator under the “Best of Award of Excellence.”

Before moving to Manhattan, though, Pope worked in Oregon at Yamhill’s Belle Pente (which produces some of the highest quality wines from the state). So I found it fitting that to pair with my pork croquette to choose a 2007 Belle Pente Murto Vineyard Pinot Noir. A subtle nod to the Willamette Valley roots of the esteemed beverage director.

Immediately I could smell the raspberry and blackberry flavors of the Pinot. And maybe a hint of currant? Beyond that intoxicating aroma the kicker for me is the texture of the wine. Just one word: silky! For being a new world wine it sure tastes spicy and earthy. I only had one glass – I should have asked for a bottle to take home!

I went diligently through the wine list, nerdily picking out bottles I would choose when I come back. Too bad I don’t have a Valentine this year, Gramercy Tavern would be one ideal date spot! 

Whites

Fritsch, Schlossberg, 2009, Wagram Austria  $50

Vouvray Sec, Foreau, 2007, Loire Valley, France  $68

Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Montenidoli, Tradizionale, 2007, Tuscany, Italy  $52

Saint Aubin, Prudhon, 1er Cru Les Castets, 2005, Côte de Beaune  #75

Dönnhoff Spätlese, Oberhäuser Brücke, 2004, Nahe, Germany #105 *splurge 

Reds

Failla, 2008, Sonoma Coast, California  $78

Grosjean, Tzeriat, 2007, Valle d’Aosta, Italy  $68

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Petitot, Les Poisets, 2007, Côte de Nuits  $78

Carmignano, Villa di Capezzana, 2005, Tuscany  $66

Frog’s Leap, 2007, Napa Valley, California  $85

Mas Jullien (Syrah/Grenache), 2005, Languedoc, France  $92

Cheval Blanc, Le Petit Cheval, 2003, Saint-Emilion  $260 *this what I’m going to buy when I make a million dollars

What Did We Think of Three Thieves?

Where can I submit my resume?

My friends, these past few days have not been easy. Over the weekend, I actually lost my voice. Thus, wine imbibing was not a possibility. I had to drink tea! (I actually like tea but it’s just not the same as a lovely glass of Cabernet Sauvignon.)

However, I could enjoy wine on television. Last week The Cooking Channel debuted a pilot Three Thieves about three guys who travel different regions, exploring new wines. Assuming this debut goes over well, expect more episodes.

The mission of the thieves is simple: find delicious wines to bottle and bring back to America at prices that are a “steal.” In the pilot our thieves travel to Chile. The highlights of their trip include visiting a winery in Colchagua Valley and dining out with a supermodel in Santiago’s latest hotspot.

Being a wine dork my favorite part of the episode was when our thieves went to a winery to try a Carmenere wine. This grape was actually believed to be extinct from France (thank goodness those conquistadors brought some vines over to Chile!). I’m immensely jealous these thieves get paid to taste delicious Chilean wine.

And who are these thieves? Charles Bieler is the New York “hipster” who has spent some time in the wine business. Eh, I don’t trust men in skinny jeans. Roger Scommegna is a hotelier and grape grower; there are some silly jokes at his expense for being the oldest gentleman of the crew. My favorite thief is Joel Gott a famed winemaker and restaurateur from Napa. Sure he’s a bit of a snob, but he’s a snob who knows his wine.

Overall I enjoyed the pilot and I hope the Cooking Channel brings back the thieves for more episodes. I just pray that when new episodes roll out I’ll be able to drink a glass of wine instead of tea!