What the Robert Parker News Really Means

Over the weekend there was a tremor in California. Thankfully, it had nothing to do with an earthquake. Instead it was announced that Robert Parker, founder of Wine Advocate, is relinquishing his mantle as kingmaker of California wines.

(History lesson: Parker really did define American wine criticism when Wine Advocate began rating wines on a 100-point schedule. Even though his influence may have waned recently, a stellar rating from WA really is a seal of excellence for any producer.)

And there is much to be said about the Parkerization of California wines. Critics of his note that he cares too much for heavy oak (OK – that’s my criticism) and is too much of a Francophile. Regardless, he probably single-handedly caused the great cult of California wines from the 90’s (i.e. Screaming Eagle). I know plenty of people who drop a lot of cash on wines that rate over 95 from Robert Parker. Heck, I’ve done that.  

And though the news is shocking, it’s probably not going to alter the California market that much. Antonio Galloni, who had been in charge of Italian wines, is now going to move towards California and. According to The San Francisco Gate here’s what we can maybe except from Galloni:  

…Appreciates stylish but not overly international wines; fond of traditional Barolos (Bartolo Mascarello jumped in its scores, while Elio Grasso and even Burlotto are getting some love) with some enthusiasm for more fashionable styles (Roberto Voerzio; Gaja) and not afraid to call out the use of oak (Ceretto); willing to give much love to the stylish Super Tuscans (Sassicaia, Tignanello); but also willing to give attention to Italy’s more esoteric, avant-garde efforts — Radikon, COS, and Sandro Fay, for instance.  In general, the focus on Italy means a lot more interest in wines that are appropriate for the table, rather than the trophy case...

Got all that? Yeah, neither did I. Basically I think this is good news for California. Fringe, small producers are going to get their shot to move into the big league and the state will probably get a more diverse range of star vintages. 

A 1997 Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon (a 100-point wine)